The Home Tools Pro

Welding Helmets: Auto-Darkening, Shade and Lens Rating

By Md. Asrafuzzaman (MA Zaman) · Updated

For most home MIG, stick and TIG work, choose an auto-darkening helmet with a variable shade of about 9 to 13, the best optical class you can get, and a rating to ANSI Z87.1. A fixed passive helmet at shade 10 is the cheapest option and works for MIG and stick if you can flip it down smoothly. Whatever you buy, the lens must block ultraviolet and infrared light at all times, even when the helmet is switched off.

Auto-darkening vs passive helmets

TypeHow it worksGood forWeak point
Auto-darkeningThe lens is clear until the arc starts, then darkens within a fraction of a secondMost welders, tack welding, positioningNeeds a battery or solar cell, costs more
Passive (fixed shade)A permanently dark lens, typically shade 10Low budget, MIG and stickYou must flip the helmet down before striking the arc

Auto-darkening lenses protect your eyes from UV and IR even in the clear state, so a dead battery does not mean an unprotected arc flash.

Which shade for which process?

Shade numbers rise with welding current: a higher number is darker. As a typical guide:

ProcessTypical shade
Stick (SMAW)About 10 to 13
MIG (GMAW)About 10 to 13
TIG (GTAW)About 8 to 13, lower for low amperage
Plasma cuttingRoughly 8 to 12, depending on current

Standards charts set the minimum shade for each process and amperage, so check the chart in your helmet’s manual. If the arc is uncomfortably bright, move up a shade. See welding safety tips for the rest of the protective gear.

What to look for in an auto-darkening helmet

  1. Shade range. A variable 9 to 13 lens covers most home work; a wider range such as 5 to 13 adds a low-amp TIG and a cutting range.
  2. Optical class. The rating 1/1/1/1 is the best; 1/2/1/2 is less clear.
  3. Reaction time. How fast the lens darkens. Faster is better, and specs of around 1/10,000 s or quicker are common on modern lenses.
  4. Sensors. Two sensors work for most welding; four sensors reduce the chance of the lens not triggering when a sensor is blocked.
  5. Controls. Sensitivity and delay settings help with low-amp TIG and with bright outdoor light.
  6. Grind mode. A switch that stops the lens from darkening while you grind. Never weld in grind mode.
  7. Lens viewing area and weight. A larger window helps in awkward positions; a lighter helmet reduces neck strain.
  8. Standards marks. Look for ANSI Z87.1 in the US and EN 379 and EN 175 in Europe.

How to use and look after a helmet

  • Clean the cover lens with a soft cloth and replace it when it is pitted by spatter.
  • Test the lens on a bright light source before each session and don’t weld if it doesn’t darken.
  • Keep the sensors clear of dust and spatter.
  • Wear safety glasses under the helmet, so that a flash during chipping or grinding does not reach bare eyes.

Pair the helmet with welding gloves and a welding jacket.

Frequently asked questions

What shade welding helmet do I need for MIG?

Most MIG welding at home falls in about shade 10 to 13, depending on the current. Use a lower shade at low amperage and a higher one at high amperage, and follow the chart in the helmet's manual.

Is an auto-darkening helmet worth it?

Usually yes for anyone who welds more than occasionally. It lets you position the electrode with the helmet down, which means fewer missed starts and fewer arc flashes to the eyes.

What does optical class 1/1/1/1 mean?

It is a four-part rating of lens clarity: optical quality, light scattering, variations in luminous transmittance and angle dependence. 1/1/1/1 is the best rating.

Can I weld with sunglasses or a darkened visor?

No. Only a lens built for welding blocks the ultraviolet and infrared radiation from the arc. Sunglasses do not.

Report a mistake on this page